By J.P. Hoornstra

The Nostalgic California Vacation 101 is an introductory travel course, with a required reading list authored by literary giants. Henry Miller’s Big Sur is still as beautiful as ever. So are John Steinbeck’s Monterey and Robert Louis Stevenson’s Napa Valley. Miss the basics, and you’re missing some the best respites from urban life that the Golden State has to offer.

But if you’re looking for something farther off the beaten trail – and want to take in a few baseball games – the Single-A California League provides a surprisingly useful advanced course. Within the league’s 10 cities, the history of California and baseball intersect every summer.

The league traces its history to 1941, a full 17 years before the Giants and Dodgers came west from New York. Its teams currently play in San Jose, Stockton, Modesto, Visalia, Bakersfield, Lancaster, Adelanto, San Bernardino, Rancho Cucamonga and Lake Elsinore. Whether heading north from Lake Elsinore or driving south from San Jose, it’s a geographically convenient 550-mile route. What you spend on gas, you’ll save on tickets — the combined minimum admission to all 10 parks is less than $70.

San Jose is the most populated city in all of Single-A baseball. In a hub for technological innovation, the Giants’ home park, Municipal Stadium, stands out as a charming anachronism. Built in 1942 under the Works Progress Administration, it’s a true piece of Americana and emblematic of the city’s attempt to retain a slice of its small-suburb past. It’s also close enough to downtown to enjoy a night out after the game, but you’ll feel far away at the ballpark.

Enjoy the old-school ads on the outfield wall, which might as well be the backdrop for “The Natural.” The beer selection is major-league quality, and if the designated “beer batter” strikes out (he’ll be announced to the “Beer Barrel Polka”), both the domestic beers and the imports are discounted for the next 15 minutes.

Next stop, Stockton. Get on Interstate 280 south in San Jose and follow it as it winds north to Interstate 580 East. Then take Highway 205 East to Interstate 5 North. Take the downtown Stockton exit to Banner Island Ballpark, the youngest park in the league (opening day: April 28, 2o05).

But don’t be deceived. Historians believe that baseball was first played in Stockton in the 1860s. The famous poem “Casey at the Bat” was penned in 1888 by then-San Francisco Chronicle sports editor Ernest Thayer, and locals insist it was inspired by a game he saw in Stockton (which was once called Mudville).

Inspiration today is drawn from the scenic setting along McLeod Lake, off the Port of Stockton, for which the team is named. The laid-back vibe extends onto the right-field porch, where 50 wooden rocking chairs offer fans a unique, cozy seat in the shade.

Modesto is a half-hour drive south on Highway 99 in the heart of California’s Central Valley. John Thurman Field has stood on its present location, at the edge of a municipal golf course, since 1952.

The quirks here are subtle, starting with the team name. The Modesto Nuts are named for the local agriculture industry, and mascots Al the Almond and Wally the Walnut eliminate any vagaries. The concession-stand menu includes a lobster sandwich (don’t be afraid!) nestled in among the standard ballpark fare. Check out a pair of unique libations offered on the express stands: Wine from the local McManis Family Vineyards and Kona Longboard Lager (at the west express stand only).

The two-hour drive to Visalia is the longest on your trip, but it’s a straight shot south on Highway 99, followed by a short 5-mile drive east on Highway 198. Exit Mooney Blvd., turn left on Giddings St. and find Recreation Park, home of the Visalia Rawhide, about a mile ahead on the right.

Opened in 1946, Rec Park recently enlarged its seating but is still the smallest park in the league with fewer than 3,000 permanent seats. The renovated entrance is curiously located down the right-field line, where the newest bank of seats juts out from a brick building.

The best seats are still behind home plate, at a proximity close enough for the umpires to hear your every profanity. If you’re looking for a convenient insult, part of the right-field fence is the broad side of an actual barn. It all adds up to the type of historic small-park charm that other buildings try to emulate – think of the grassy knoll in center field at Houston’s Minute Maid Park – but is difficult to pull off.

Once you’ve exhausted the nooks and crannies of historic Visalia, trace your route back from Highway 198 to Highway 99, then go south for about 90 minutes until you reach Bakersfield. Exit Olive Drive, make a right on Roberts Lane, then turn left on Chester Ave. and drive south for a mile until you see Sam Lynn Ballpark on your right.

Since 1941, the Bakersfield Blaze (and its predecessors the Dodgers, Mariners, Outlaws, Dodgers again, Bears, Boosters, Indians and Badgers) have had to look due west into the sunset while batting, making the park unique for an inconvenience. When selecting your seats, know that the best here aren’t behind home plate.

The other quirk in the league’s oldest park is a center-field fence that sits a scant 354 feet from home plate, reputed to be the shortest in professional baseball. A high wall makes it tough to clear a ball entirely out of the park, however. You don’t have to close your eyes to imagine Dodgers prospects from Mike Piazza to Don Drysdale on this field wondering if they’d ever make the big leagues.

Lancaster, home of the JetHawks, is less than two hours south of Bakersfield. Get back on Highway 99, take Highway 58 East, then exit Highway 14 South. Take the Avenue I exit, hang a right, then make the first left onto Valley Central Way to find the ballpark.

Technically it’s called Clear Channel Stadium, but it’s immediately clear why locals call it “The Hangar” — a giant model jet blasting off in front of the stadium entrance, an homage to nearby Edwards Air Force Base. There isn’t much to do in the Antelope Valley, especially for an off-duty pilot, and the JetHawks have drawn well since their birth in 1996.

Other than the jet, the relatively copious amounts of healthy food make The Hangar unique. The Club House Cantina by first base is full of Mexican goodies. A nearby Robek’s serves up smoothies and muffins. Wander over to the third-base side for coffee or tea, and you can leave on a full stomach without touching a hot dog, burger or pizza.

Get back on Highway 14 and plan on a one-hour, 15-minute drive to the city of Adelanto, the next stop. Veer east on Highway 138 and keep straight on Highway 18 as you take in the desert views. Look for Highway 395, turn left, and keep going straight on Adelanto Road when the highway veers left.

If it seems like you’re in the middle of nowhere, you’re probably in the neighborhood of Stater Bros. Stadium. The home field of the High Desert Mavericks is one of two major landmarks in Adelanto. The other is a static inverter station, so stick around and have some fun.

Because Adelanto itself is so sparsely populated, the Mavericks draw knowledgeable, diehard fans from all around the desert. And the locals dig the long ball. A combination of short fences and thin air means that more home runs sail out of Stater Bros. Stadium than any park in the league. Double-digit scores are de rigeur, like the 33-18 loss to Lake Elsinore in 2008 that set a Cal League record for most runs scored in a game.

It’s only appropriate that (part of) the road leading to the home of the Inland Empire 66ers is its historic namesake, Route 66. Take Highway 395 south to Interstate 15, over the Cajon Pass, then exit Interstate 215 south into downtown San Bernardino. Exit 5th Street (alternately marked Historic Route 66), turn left, then turn right on E Street and find Arrowhead Credit Union Park a mile ahead on your right.

You’ll immediately notice the architectural resemblance to The Hangar, sans the fighter jet statue out front. The visual attractions here are inside – the enormous scoreboard, the San Bernardino Mountains in the background and the NBA-style dance team that performs atop the dugouts.

The 66ers take full advantage of their affiliation with the Dodgers in the form of autograph signings by alumni, and injury rehab assignments by current players. Legendary manager Tommy Lasorda also frequents a seat near the top of the lower box section. A glimpse of the team’s history sits next door in the form of the Branding Iron, a rowdy country bar that alludes to the Sixers’ former incarnation as the San Bernardino Stampede.

Rancho Cucamonga is especially close and you can take advantage of the proximity by getting your kicks on Route 66. Rather than taking the freeway, drive West on 5th Street, taking note of the Rat Pack-era architectural relics you’ll pass along the way. Turn left on Rochester Ave. and The Epicenter emerges grandly on the right.

The park opened in 1993 but looks much newer thanks to a 2008 renovation. What was sacrificed in old-school charm is compensated for with modern comforts like cupholders and seat backs. Because it doesn’t look like a Single-A stadium, the Epicenter has been the backdrop for Nike, Gatorade, Budweiser and Miller Lite commercials, to name a few.

In such a modern setting, the most historic footnote is just outside the park: The intersection of Rochester and Jack Benny Drive. It’s not far from the historic train station site that made “Anaheim, Azusa and Cooc-amonga!” famous in a line from the Jack Benny Show in the 1940s. Benny got a street named after him, plus a statue that was recently moved from the ballpark to the local cultural center.

Drive a block north on Rochester, make a right on Foothill Blvd., then another quick right onto Interstate 15 and drive 40 miles South to Lake Elsinore. Look for the Diamond Drive exit and take a right – the park is unmistakable sitting beside the massive lake.

The Diamond matches the Epicenter’s upscale veneer, albeit in a much different setting. Tucked between the lake and a remote valley, it doesn’t get much better than a day on the lake followed by a night at the park.

Kids roll around on a grassy knoll behind the right-field bullpen — not unlike the scene in San Bernardino and Lancaster. A different vibe exists in the Diamond Club, an indoor restaurant behind the right-field foul line with a ceiling-high window facing the field. Enjoy a restaurant-caliber meal and a full range of beverages while you watch the game, not to mention air conditioning – a nice option in a triple-digit summer swelter.

Whether starting south and heading north, or vice versa, you’ll start and end at either side of the historic spectrum. Lake Elsinore is a non-traditional baseball market that just happened to be leading the league in attendance halfway through the 2010 season. San Jose has a fine tradition, but it could be thwarted if the Oakland A’s ever move to the South Bay.

Meanwhile, the High Desert Mavericks and Bakersfield Blaze have suffered from poor attendance and been linked to rumors of relocation. You get the sense that the unprecedented stability in the Cal League (all the teams have played in their current city since 1996) isn’t going to last forever.

In other words, there’s no better time to plan a trip.

Schedule/Ticket information:

Lake Elsinore Storm
Rancho Cucamonga Quakes
Inland Empire 66ers
High Desert Mavericks
Lancaster JetHawks
Bakersfield Blaze
Visalia Rawhide
Modesto Nuts
Stockton Ports
San Jose Giants

By Paula Conway

The goal on my second trip to Salt Lake City was to add some color to a city famous for its snow and salt. Happy to say, mission accomplished – and much easier than expected.

My first visit came a few months prior to the 2002 Winter Olympic Games. The snow had piled knee-high along the streets of downtown, where Olympic-themed banners advertised the coming global attraction. Most of my time was spent skiing the slopes, testing out the Wasatch Mountains’ famous powder. It was just right.

This time, even though fresh snow beckoned during a mid-week in May, my two-day trip would be dedicated to unearthing treasures on the valley floor.

The Hotel Monaco served as the perfect launching pad. While it blends inconspicuously into Salt Lake City’s classic downtown and is housed in a brick building formerly occupied by a bank, the Monaco’s colorful interior was just what I was looking for.

My room was delightfully laden with reds and greens and golds, with plenty of white – if I wanted it – sitting outside my window on the mountains. The setting’s useful quirks extended to the smallest detail, namely a goldfish in my room that served as a provisional pet.

The warmth was far from superficial, however. An elegant living room downstairs is the place to find complimentary coffee in the morning and wine by night. The friendly staff was willing and able to help make the most of my visit.

Knowing I was hungry to experience Utah’s vibrant side, I was urged to visit the home studio of a local artist, Pilar Pobil. Pilar was born in Spain but has become something of a local institution here. I called to arrange a visit*, hopped in the rental car. and discovered even more color than I bargained for.

The rich, earth-toned pastels seemingly jumped off her interior walls, whetting my appetite for the dynamic hues of her artwork (and inspiring me to do away with the beige on my own walls). Pilar had just had a showing at the Patrick Moore Gallery in April and was preparing for her annual home studio exhibit in June, an exhibition featuring five other artists. It wouldn’t take that many artists to achieve the diversity of Pilar’s portfolio, which features paintings of people, plants, and landscapes, and utilizes everything from earth tones to bright primaries.

I purchased a pair of prints, but my art jones wasn’t satisfied. Per Pilar’s recommendation, I headed to the Phillips Gallery for a quick browse before dinner. Some of its contemporary sculptures would not look out of place at MOMA, and some of the paintings show so much skin as to make a Mormon mother cover her child’s eyes.

It was back to the Monaco for dinner at Bambara, the in-house restaurant just off the lobby. Reservations are recommended, and it was easy to see why at a glance, what with a crowded cluster of patrons creating a low din over contemporary American dishes.

The homemade potato chips topped with bleu cheese were a sinful, garden-fresh appetizer. Save room for your entrée, because it is designed to fill you up. I rolled the dice on the bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin and was rewarded with a juicy and tender dish. For dessert, I needed something a little more conservative. The crème brulee trio did the trick, and the sugar pumpkin, dark chocolate, and tangerine flavors were a welcome twist on the classic custard and hard caramel.

Bambara’s urban veneer was dovetailing nicely with the rest of my Salt Lake City experience. Having uncovered the city’s sophisticated side, I needed to dig into some only-in-Utah activities on Day 2.

Taking in the fresh morning air, I walked around the corner from the Monaco to catch breakfast at the Lamb Grill and Café. Knowing my feet would need the boost, I opted for a power breakfast of a cheddar cheese omelet, sliced bananas, and a strong cup of coffee. Then it was on to Temple Square, a walkable two city blocks north.

The 10-acre downtown centerpiece is full of contradictions. Even though it’s a mecca for tourists of all religious persuasions, it’s hardly a tourist trap – admission to one of its guided half-hour tours is free. Among so much sightseeing, it may be easy to forget the grounds are also a spiritual center for the Latter-Day Saints. Needless to say, I’m glad I remembered my camera.

Beginning at 9 a.m., tours depart every 15 minutes from the North and South gates and are delivered in 40 different languages. Since there’s enough beauty and history here to hold my attention, I choose English. A pair of young and friendly “sisters,” sent here to serve their church mission, serve as my guides. They explain the history behind each of the tour stops: The Mormon Tabernacle (no one was singing while I passed through), the North Visitors Center with its imposing 11-foot Christus replica statue, the 21,000-seat Conference Center, the Family History Library, and the Temple itself – whose doors are closed to non-Mormons.

Of everything on the tour, the one that kept calling me back was the Family History Library. It’s a mecca within a mecca – specifically, for genealogists. I got lost in their digital library, and only hunger pangs eventually pried me from my seat. I left with some data in hand covering a couple centuries’ worth of roots.

Onto lunch, where on my walk back to the hotel I found an upscale casual treasure in Martine. Their southwest chicken salad was more refreshing than spicy, and was filling without being too heavy.

Back in my hotel room, I was yearning to pore over some of my family history, but couldn’t resist a power nap after a morning spent on my feet. Even after waking up, I wanted the relaxation to continue.

That led to an afternoon excursion to the spa at the Grand America Hotel, the opulent older brother to the hip-yet-sophisticated Monaco. I didn’t want to confess that I was staying four blocks up the road, and ultimately I didn’t have to. The $25 surcharge to use the spa is waived with the purchase of any service.

I chose to bask in the opulence with a Duet Massage. Imagine a pair of classically trained pianists using your body to perform a 50-minute Tchaikovsky masterpiece. It’s kind of like that.

I certainly wasn’t willing to leave, but my final dinner in Salt Lake City had to be spent at a local treasure that would make me feel back at home — with a room full of strangers. Cleverly called Brewvies, it’s a fairly straightforward combination of a bar, movie theater, and a diner that begs the question: Why hadn’t anyone thought of this before?

Maybe someone in Utah was waiting for the state to relax its curious liquor laws, which had been in place from 1935 until 2009, to unleash this idea. Regardless, once I finished talking about my family tree, I knew I would be telling friends about watching Date Night with a chicken sandwich and beer in hand.

After checking out of my hotel the next morning, I realized I had two options: Try to open a Brewvies of my own, or bring some friends back with me on my next trip. Knowing that Salt Lake City boasts such a broad spectrum of cultural hues, a return visit shouldn’t be a tough sell.

* Call 801-359-2356 to book a studio tour.

By Paula Conway

Having never seen a Fazioli piano before, I was stunned when I nearly walked into one inside the new Fairmont Pacific Rim. Perhaps I shouldn’t have been so surprised, because Vancouver is full of one incredible gem after another. Still, a close encounter with a handmade Fazioli — arguably, the greatest grand piano in the world, with only 100 made every year — in this Canadian hotel lobby was quite the shocker.

And as nobody was playing her when we met, I furtively strolled over to tickle the ivories — not so much to produce music as so I could proudly say I had touched such a treasure.

Then it was off to attend class in this unforgettable waterside hotel, finished just in time for the Winter Olympics with its amazing Coal Harbour views, waterfalls, rooftop pool, outdoor fireplace, and meditation pods. My aim: to make a treasure of my own.

As an aspiring baker, I had enrolled in a private desserts class, where four hours of instruction with the Fairmont Pacific Rim’s pastry chef resulted in an impressive chocolate concoction (intermingling three kinds of chocolate) — true icing on the cake of a great afternoon.

In fact, all four afternoons I spent in Vancouver were memorably enjoyable, especially this one with a sweet slant and the chance to flaunt my new, Fairmont Pacific Rim personalized chef’s jacket once I returned home. But that would come later; for now, I was bound for an evening out.

The pickings are plenty in Vancouver, known these days as Canada’s favorite foodie destination, with Asian cuisine a specialty. In fact, many gourmands say this Pacific Rim metropolis boasts some of North America’s finest. I certainly know that my experience, at the legendary Tojo’s, was nothing short of top notch.

Choosing Tojo’s in the first place proved quite the process. Because Vancouver has more sushi restaurants per capita than Japan, I arrived armed with a list of the best thanks to an Asian-food-savvy friend back home. Among them were Miku, Toshi, and Kibune — with Tojo’s her first pick. When I ran all the names past an equally discerning friend in Vancouver, this expat local was quick to send me there directly. Decision made.

Perhaps the secret to this restaurant’s success is that raw fish combinations and preparations are all in Hidekazu Tojo’s head. Wielding the proper blade of a seasoned sushi chef, the Osaka-born Tojo came into town in 1971, trained some more, then opened his namesake eatery in 1988. From that day forward, this Canadian jewel has been dubbed the city’s best Japanese restaurant by Vancouver magazine.

Tojo’s is also cited in the book 1,000 Places to See Before You Die — an accolade so well-deserved that I happily made Tojo’s my dinner destination for my second night on the town. My selection of what to eat was left to Tojo, because I ordered the omakase, a tasting menu of all the fresh and fabulous fare the famed chef chose to conjure that evening. My favorite? His appropriately named Golden Roll, a mixture of crab, scallop, salmon, and shrimp all woven inside a crepe thin wrap.

Dinner done (and delectably digested), I returned to my hotel of choice, The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, one of four Fairmont hotels in the city. This accommodation was a natural for me, situated at the heart of the vibrant metropolis and sporting the unmistakable architecture of a 16th-century French chateau. I felt like a princess by just looking at the facade.

Perhaps the most compelling aspect for this visitor is the traveler’s theme at the hotel’s main entrance. Above the Georgia Street doors at the top of a large window is an oversized carving of the great messenger Hermes, the Greek god of travelers. Above Hermes, the traveler’s theme continues with intricate stone carvings of a ship and of a train. I was home.

This sense of comfort became more evident inside, where the Art Moderne styling suited my fancy, up to and including the nickel trim, painted elevator doors, curved doorways, and marble chip terrazzo flooring. Original geometric designs and bright colors stay true to this gracious hotel’s Deco beginnings.

Then there are the Griffins, the Fairmont Vancouver mascot. Part lion, part eagle, this mythological creature was said to hold the job of guarding treasure — which, in this case, are the hotel’s guests. Griffins are everywhere for that purpose, on the lobby carpet, in the elevators, even embroidered onto staff uniforms. I felt safe.

Next morning, refreshed, I woke up early, ready for a long day tromping around Vancouver. A good friend who lives there told me to meet her in front of the Lord Stanley statue at noon, so when I dressed to embark on a day of exploration I put on my sneakers. Even though Vancouver is a fashionable town, I wanted to be comfortable.

We started at Lord Stanley’s statue, the landmark entrance to Vancouver’s biggest patch of nature. This urban forest, named after the Governor General of Canada whose reign began in 1867, is a vast network of trails among cedar, fir, and hemlock.

Then it was on to the Seawall, a stonewall hugging Stanley Park’s shoreline, for a chance to take in an array of Vancouver landmarks, including Lion’s Gate Bridge, the Stanley Park Totem Poles, and Brockton Point and Lighthouse.

I love the Girl in a Wetsuit sculpture, depicting a life-sized woman gracefully posed on a big boulder. When the tide is high, it looks as if she is floating on top of the water. Those who spot her think she resembles the mermaid in Copenhagen’s harbor, but if you peek down at this one’s feet, you’ll see she’s wearing flippers, while on her head there’s a diving mask.

Hungry and in need of a brief rest, we grabbed a log on the beach at English Bay, part of the lively West End area, and enjoyed an impromptu snack from a friendly hot-dog vendor. Had we more time, we could have tasted nearby fare from India, Brazil, Italy, France, Mexico, Asia, and Africa. For another visit.

Our next stop, the Vancouver Aquarium, became a learning center for me as we watched and soaked up information about everything from beluga whales to sea anemones. We took the Salmon Stream Tour, and yes, in the process, we did swim upstream — only I was still wearing my sneakers.

Changing to heels, I had dinner back at my original post, the lovely Fairmont, starting with a superior martini that the in-house 900 West Lounge calls “After the Frost” — a combination splash of BC Ice Wine, shaken and poured over frozen grapes. Dinner at Griffins was divine, with a la carte favorites focused on fresh ingredients from the West Coast.

Another afternoon in Vancouver meant a refreshing 10-minute water taxi ride to Granville Island. At the famous market there, I checked out the work of local artisans. I also sampled local cheeses and literally smelled the hundreds of dozens of freshly cut flowers. It was a leisurely, lovely time away from the fray.

Back in the city proper, I made a point of making the shopping rounds on Robson Street, as well as taking in the designer stores near my hotel: Tiffany, Hermes, and Coach, among them. In the hotel, the Louis Vuitton’s flagship store showed off the latest collection, a bright bunch of luxury items I coveted.

My credit card burning (OK, I made some small purchases at Coach), I designated my last shopping stop at Holt Renfrew, this time just to see what’s in style in Vancouver. What I found beyond all the jewelry, shoes, accessories, and cosmetics was a fabulous three-story department store I would need to revisit for some serious buying. (Americans consider Holt Renfrew the Neiman Marcus of Canada.)

Shopping under my belt and beyond my budget (no regrets!), it was finally time to relax. That I did at the Fairmont Hotel’s Absolute Spa while indulging in a decadent pedicure. The surroundings for such pampering include unique chairs equipped with large, flat-screen TVs that also act as computer screens, complete with Internet access.

Strange thing was, despite my usual 24/7 addiction to the ether, I didn’t want Internet access just then. Instead, I wanted to soak up memories of my brilliant trip to Vancouver while I soaked in the warm water, my toes thanking me after so much walking.

No, I’m not complaining, just remembering. In fact, I plan to go back again next year to do another round in this wonderful Pacific Rim city — where I intend to wear out at least one pair of sneakers alone on a repeat visit to Vancouver’s incomparable Stanley Park.

By Paula Conway

Not many people start their winter getaway to northwestern Colorado in a botanical garden, but feeling the stress of holiday madness, I did. In my defense, this wasn’t my idea. I followed directions from my insightful Vail Valley author friend, Jodi Jill, who, when asked, advised me where to decompress.

“Head for Betty Ford’s Alpine Gardens,” she said unequivocally.

Neither the snowboarder nor skier type, yet still yearning to get up-close-and-personal with a winter wonderland after arming myself with plenty of padding, I pointed my rented Pontiac toward Ford Park.

Fluffy flakes were falling when I arrived at this at this high-altitude garden about 8,000 feet above sea level. Obviously, perennials were not in bloom, but the Rocky Mountains were in all their splendor, especially after I reached the top of Mountain Meditation Garden. There, a wall of Colorado blue spruce wore heavy snow shavings, a vista out of a picture book and just the right place for me to Zen out before nature’s most magnificent view.

Next stop: Inside, for some warmth and the chance to imbibe without having to explain my liquid intake in the middle of the day.

Forgoing the typical big Colorado brewery, I instead chose a micro version. Located about 10 miles west of Vail Village in Edward, Gore Range Brewery is a non-touristy pub with a spirited carte offering a sassy sampler selection. I liked the full-bodied Biker Stout and the suggestively named Great Sex Honey Ale — which, surprisingly, was very mild. Without a doubt, the Gore Range motto — “Microbrews, macro-fun” — is fitting.

Because I also sampled some peanut-crusted mahi-mahi at my brewery of choice, I wasn’t hungry for a big meal, so supper wasn’t anything fancy. Still, my watering hole stop did entail a new gastronomic experience: elk stew. Enjoyed at a popular local night spot called Half Moon Saloon in the West Vail Mall, this homemade concoction was hearty, if not entirely to my liking. Thankfully, I was full enough from the fish consumed earlier.

Back at my hotel room in perhaps the Vail Valley’s best digs, The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch in Beaver Creek, I opted to finalize the day on a spa note.

And what a note it was, and a sweet one, at that. My treatment of choice was the very vividly dubbed Apple Pie a la Mode, a scrub of just what the name promises, to start the exfoliation process. Also good for hydration, my masseuse’s magical mixture included cinnamon, apple extract, and a slew of natural oils. Afterwards, I felt — and smelled — delicious.

And, thanks to the invigorating dessert without calories, sleep was sound. Still, I arose early the next morning, eager to start my final day by taking part in The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch Loan-A-Lab program.

Being a bit homesick for my own pooch, a Potcake named Marley, I took the luxury hotel’s resident pup — a gentle golden Labrador retriever called Bachelor — out for a long walk around the Rocky Mountain hotel’s storied grounds. The two of us ended our winter stroll by sitting by the Ritz’s fire pit, enjoying the crisp air together and having the warmth hit my cold back. This was a very bonding time for canine and human — especially so since, good dog that he is, Bachelor sat on my frozen feet.

All too soon, it was nearly time to end my three-day Vail Valley stay. So, at the 11th hour, I finally decided to whole-heartedly give into the snow — but not before being appropriately attired.

Translation: I went shopping, finding a fabulous boutique where outerwear is chic.

Although One Track Mind in Lionshead Mall is known as a serious snowboard shop, winter clothes and accessories are what attracted my attention. Of special interest were a pair of trendy Vans boots, warmly adorned with a fluffy sheepskin-style lining (no sheep sheared for these beauties).

Then it was off into the wild blue yonder in the Colorado backcountry, cozying up to the mountainous lower levels via snowmobile. Passive exerciser a plus, the zippy machine took me over the trails and through the woods to Piney River Ranch.

Along the way, we stopped to play in what is known as Fox Farm, so named because the groomed area’s original purpose was to do away with the furry animals for their pelts. Happily, no animals are skinned there anymore, although an original early 1900s homestead cabin is still on site, taking me back to a time when life was certainly simpler than worrying about where to find gas for my snowbound vehicle should I get lost.

The entire ride was memorable experience, one that I found both exhilarating and easy to negotiate. All that was needed was a good ending to the snow-filled afternoon, say a sit by a blazing fire with a cup of hot cider in hand. As if reading my mind, our tour guide provided the very thing following our mighty snowmobile journey that had me traverse some 30 miles of Rocky Mountain terrain.

This mindful respite invoked a nostalgic return to the prior’s night’s Ritz-Carlton apple dessert massage, a soothing pastime I never knew existed until my very first Vail Valley visit was almost over. Now, that’s what I call icing on the Rocky Mountain cake, er, I mean pie. Good, old-fashioned, American apple pie — with a new-fangled, New Age twist.

By: Kelley Vick and William P. Brown

Dads are travelers, too. Whether it’s a special occasion or just a reminder of how you love going on adventures with your pop, a trip together can create one of the most memorable times you’ll ever share. With that in mind, here are our top ten ideas for making sure you become your father’s favorite travel companion.

Riding High

If Dad likes his vacations with a Southwestern flair, then the Inn on the Alameda will do the trick, Santa Fe-style. Relaxed and homey, the pueblo-style inn boasts complimentary breakfasts, a free wine and cheese hour, and a perfect location just steps from Canyon Road galleries. Art and shopping not Dad’s thing? This summer, the Inn is teaming up with Mellow Velo Bike Company to provide the ultimate biking getaway. The two-night cycling/sleeping package includes 24-hour bike rental with equipment, nutrition bars, water (with a custom bottle) and energy drinks, transportation to the trailhead, two 50-minute in-room massages, and a $40 gift certificate for dinner at Mucho Gusto, the lively Mexican restaurant right next door to the inn. Wondering what to order? Stuffed chicken creast in chipolte cream sauce, enchiladas Suiza, and steak fajitas are all recommended.

303 E. Alameda

888-984-2121

www.innonthealameda.com

Blazing Inactivity

Overworked Dads wanting to chill out on passive adventures will love cool, calm, and collected Costa Rica. The deluxe Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica at Peninsula Papagayo offers what we call Costa Rican TV. Lay back and admire amazing marine life on the Sea Spy, a glass-bottomed water scooter for virtual scuba diving. It’s like watching a huge flat-screen in high def, with zebra-striped wahoos and spotted eagle rays swimming right up into the picture. Or how about hanging around at treetop level while soaking in an outdoor hydro spa in the middle of a rainforest? From there, Dad will spot Howler monkeys frolicking while a scarlet macaw grooms in the forefront of a blue Pacific backdrop. Chilling out continues at the Four Seasons spa where a massage therapist rolls out the knots with a contoured bamboo shoot. Afterwards, take your appetite and a five-minute shuttle to the Prieta Beach Club & Spa’s open-air Marea eatery, for local jumbo prawns sautéed in a coconut banana curry sauce. At the end of the day, if Dad still longs for continued effortless adventure, he can drive his rested self to the very lively Arenal Volcano (it erupts at least twice an hour) in the interior highlands. Lookout spots abound, but seeing red takes precedence at night, so stick around for the main attraction.

800-332-3442

www.fourseasons.com

Crystal Clear

For Dads who like taking to the sea without worrying about manning their own vessel, we recommend a trip aboard the Serenity or the Symphony. Each of these highly praised Crystal Cruises’ ships offer onboard activities that go far beyond typical bridge, shuffleboard, and marathon eating contests. Consider trying paddle tennis or taking a golf lesson provided by a PGA pro. If Pop’s a runner, the Crystal ships are there for him, providing long, wide decks (on each designated area, 3.2 laps equal a mile). For the cigar and Scotch crowd, there’s the Connoisseurs’ Club, and for the computer literate who want to be even more so, there’s the high-end line’s ComputerUniversity@Sea program against a backdrop of floor-to-ceiling windows from which to watch the world go by. Our favorite shipboard activity for our learned Dads? High-level lectures from all sorts of speakers, including celebrated authors, foreign diplomats, historians, television journalists, and noted financial leaders. To be sure, for even the most know-it-all Dad, there’s always something new to learn during a Crystal Cruises’ voyage.

888-722-0021

www.crystalcruises.com

Highland Swing

Home to the G8 Summit of world leaders in July 2005, the Gleneagles Hotel is no stranger to stately guests. Rest assured that Dad will be well taken care of at this luxurious, five-star resort in Scotland’s backcountry. Sure, golf is the big game here, but Gleneagles also boasts a world-class shooting school, an equestrian school, a school of falconry, and a gundog school (the first of its kind in the world). But back to golf: The resort claims three of the top Scottish Championship Golf courses, and is the chosen venue for the 40th Ryder Cup matches in 2014. Note: Is Pops up for a challenge? The famed Kings course, open since 1919, fits the bill for even the most proficient golfer. Once sporting is done for the day, Dad will surely want to hit ESPA at Gleneagles for the Golfer’s Tonic, this super spa’s choice treatment that targets swing tension held in the back and neck as well as golf-weary legs and feet. The healing begins in the feet with a soothing soak, scrub, and hot stone massage. Then is it on to the legs with a warming paraffin mask to restore energy, and, finally, the whole experience is topped off with a hot stone back massage. What more could a man ask for?

Auchterarder, Perthshire

866-881-9525

www.gleneagles.com

Dive In

Is Dad a diver — or has he just always dreamed of being one? The newly opened Anantara Si Kao Resort and Spa on Thailand’s famed Andaman coast operates a five-star PADI dive center that’s ready and waiting to help Dad perfect his skills. Offering a full range of training programs, the center can even help a novice diver become certified right on site. Other right-there activities include windsurfing, twilight fishing, water-skiing, pick-up soccer matches, and swimming with “sea cows.” But it’s not all about the outdoors at this stunning resort. With expansive views of the ocean or the lush tropical gardens, deluxe rooms feature flat-screen TVs, DVD players, and high-speed Internet — all to quench Dad’s inevitable thirst for gadgetry at its best.

198-199 Moo5, Had Pak Meng – Changlang Road, Changlang beach, Maifad, Sikao, Trang 92150

+66 (0) 7520 5888

www.sikao.anantara.com

Man-Up in Bali

An intimate and stylish hotel in the heart of Bali, the Uma Ubud is the kind of place where Dad could easily relax and dream the day away — but it sure would be a shame if that’s all he chooses to do. Located on the fringe of Ubud, Bali’s cultural hub, this enticing retreat is the perfect base from which to explore all the rich culture and heart-pounding adventure for which Bali has always been known. The Ubud Active package allows Dad three fun and amazing ways to explore Bali’s beautiful back country. Hike the Bale Timbang Trek past local temples, villages, and misted paddy fields to Uma Ubud’s sister property, COMO Shambhala Estate. Go whitewater rafting on the Ayung River for a unique view of Bali’s vast wildlife while you catch your thrills. And, last but not least, charge down the side of volcanic Mt. Batur on a mountain bike. If that doesn’t increase your heart rate, then all we can say is pick up a mean Espresso Martini at the Uma Ubud’s mesmerizing Uma bar.

Jalan Raya Sanggingan, Banjar Lungsiakan, Kedewatan

+62 361 972448

www.uma.ubud.como.bz

Thrill Seeker

Perched in the spectacular Rocky Mountains, right next to Keystone Lake, Keystone Lodge and Spa is a year-round adventure destination. In winter, there’s world-class skiing. In summer, first-rate hiking and fishing. To make the most of the area, guests of Keystone Lodge receive complimentary Adventure Passports for free access to a plethora of outdoor activities like boating and golf clinics (in summer) and snowshoeing and sleigh rides (winter). No matter what adventures Dad chooses, he’ll bed down in luxury linens with a picturesque view of the mountain with the benefit of free wireless Internet in his room. And if Pop’s hankering for a steak, he won’t have far to go. The Bighorn Steakhouse is right on the property and serves up the finest cuts of corn-fed American beef along with wild game, fresh seafood, and other delectable specialties.

22101 U.S. Hwy. 6

866-455-ROCK

www.keystonelodge.rockresorts.com

Not All’s in the Name

It may be part of the name, but golf isn’t the only draw to the Ritz Carlton Golf Resort in Naples, Fla. Nestled at the edge of the Everglades National Park, near the Ten Thousand Islands, Naples is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. Fishing is the main enterprise in the “mangrove jungle” of the Everglades (there are 220 species of fish living in the Florida Mangrove systems), but there’s also fantastic bird watching, kayaking, airboat tours, and manatee spotting. Back at the resort, Dad will enjoy an elegantly-appointed room complete with the finest amenities (this is a Ritz, after all) and a private balcony with panoramic views of Tiburon, the Greg Norman-designed 36-hole championship golf course. Dad more of a water-sportsman? Parasailing, snorkeling, rhino motorboats, body boards, catamarans, and skim boards are all available on the Gulf of Mexico between 10 and 4 p.m. After working up an appetite on the ocean, you’ll want to check out Lemonia, a Tuscan grill featuring daily chef specials of homemade pasta and fresh seafood and an award-winning Sunday brunch.

2600 Tiburon Dr.

239-593-2000

www.ritzcarlton.com

Country Charm

Is Dad a cowboy at heart? He’ll love a weekend at The Resort at Paws-Up. Situated along seven miles of the Blackfoot River (made famous by the movie A River Runs Through It), Paws-Up is steeped in history and adventure. In 1806, Captain Merriwether Lewis, of the Lewis and Clark expedition, reportedly climbed Sentinel Rock on Paws-Up property to get a view of the Marias River on his return from the Pacific Ocean. Today, Paws-Up is home to a one-of-a-kind pastoral countryside resort. Choose from sleeping in one of 28 luxury vacation homes (complete with flat-screen TVs, DVD players, and private outdoor hot tubs) or 12 spectacularly-appointed tents that feature top-notch beds outfitted in fine linens, wall art, rustic furniture, nearby private bathrooms (with running water, heated floors and organic bath products), and, yes, electricity. Daily activities might include fly-fishing, ATV tours, shooting sports, equestrian excursions, mountain biking, river adventures, lake activities, or repelling. Wildlife is abundant in the area, so, no matter what activities you choose, don’t be surprised to see a bald eagle, moose, or bear along the way. And don’t be afraid to work up an appetite. Dining at Paws-Up is an adventure in itself, with chef Wes Coffel — an avid follower of the “farm-to-table” culinary movement — whipping up gourmet delicacies with a local flair, focusing on local organic produce and Montana-raised meats like pheasant, quail, elk, bison, trout and – gulp! – rattlesnake.

40060 Paws Up Rd.

800-473-0601

www.pawsup.com

Not Just ‘Fore’ Skiers

Home of the 2010 Winter Olympics, Whistler is known for its winter sports, but don’t count it out as a summer destination — a great time to visit with good old Dad. This British Columbia mountain town has also gained a reputation as Canada’s premier golf location. In fact, the Fairmont Chateau Whistler was voted one of the Top Ten golf resorts in the world by the readers of Conde Nast Traveler. Legendary Robert Trent Jones Jr. designed the par 72, 18-hole course at Fairmont Chateau with Whistler’s natural beauty in mind. While playing a round, golfers change elevations by more than 400 feet, crisscrossing mountain creeks and ponds, and meandering past ancient Douglas Fir and sheer granite rock faces. Watch out for the signature eighth hole, a 212-yard par three requiring an uphill tree shot past rock outcroppings on the right and a pond on the left. And, for some “19th hole” refreshment, stop by the Mallard Lounge, a cozy local featuring live entertainment and signature cocktails with the ambiance of an English gentleman’s club. So, if Dad wants to play where the pros plays, get him the gift of Fairmont’s Golf Fore Free package. Just stay two nights at this Fairmont with the great fairway and you’ll receive one free round of golf for each person registered in the room.

4599 Chateau Blvd.

866-540-4424

www.fairmont.com/whistler

Greetings from St. Andrews, Scotland

Before I get into the thick of my trip, I need to make one thing perfectly clear: Even though I am visiting St. Andrews — the birthplace of golf — I have absolutely no intention of swinging a single club during my week in Scotland. Sacrilegious as this may seem, golf is not for me.

But, honestly, I don’t even qualify as a duffer — even though I’ve been assigned a delightful room with a bird’s-eye view of the famous links’ 17th hole (known as the Road Hole) inside the Old Course Hotel, Golf Course & Spa. So, in a way, I am in the game — and without so much as chunking even one divot out of this hallowed course.

Then, too, from my balcony, I can see the Fife coastline, the familiar background for the recognizable Swilkin Bridge, an ancient stone span traversed by every golf great I can think of, from Jack Nicklaus to Tiger Woods. As is tradition, new players snap photos of each other there, proof they have completed a round at St. Andrews.

I guess I won’t be crossing that bridge.

Instead, my focus will continue to be on the castle-like, five-star Old Course Hotel with its newly renovated accommodations. The current owners, the Wisconsin-based Kohler Company, brought their guest rooms into the 21st century with such up-to-the-minute infusions as chromatherapy tubs and handsome, one-of-a-kind, ceramic basins — all looking like they’ve leapt from the pages of Architectural Digest. The same goes for the dazzling bedrooms with red-and-white striped wallpaper, privacy curtains, and upholstered chairs. My favorite furnishings are the sleigh beds, one of which cradled me into last night’s deep sleep.

Another reason I slept so well is probably thanks to yesterday’s session at the Kohler Spa, a sanctuary of regimes I was told are based on the theory of thassalotherapy — the therapeutic benefits of water. I understood once I set eyes on the overflowing infinity bath, the open-air pole showers, and the mesmerizing RiverBath waterfall.

My treatment of choice? Why, the Highland Fling, of course. During this extensive experience, I was covered in finely ground, mint-scented coffee, and then drenched by spine-tingling Vichy showers that traversed my entire body to exfoliate and rejuvenate. I felt as good as the taste of a decaf iced latte.

I could go on forever about this place, since there’s so much to enjoy about the Old Course. The Conservatory is perfect for High Tea, heralding all kinds of brews, including chocolate. The Jigger Inn pub is another Old Course mainstay for a Scotch and some lively conversation. Open hearths sizzled yesterday while a bunch of us Americans took on a rowdy discussion with a few Scots about U.S. politics, all in good spirits (the Scotch always helps).

Even with all these delightful adventures to keep me busy, I have been fighting back the urge (or is that a sense of obligation?) to partake of St. Andrews’s sport du jour. Finally, I caved in, making an appointment with the resident PGA pro. However, this decision does require a confession. You see, rather than hitting the links, this great Scot golfer and I hit the Duke’s Course Clubhouse restaurant, where I had a terrific time learning about a fascinating game I would probably never play — all the while dining on fish and chips the scrumptious like of which I will probably never consume again.

All in all, short of meeting the Nessie, the Loch Ness Monster, I don’t think I missed a single marvelous experience in St. Andrews, the gateway to the Highlands. But who knows? That illusive creature may just turn up — and if she does, she can have my golf club.

My very best,
Jane Lasky