The non-athlete’s guide to Vancouver
February 8th, 2010
By Paula Conway
Having never seen a Fazioli piano before, I was stunned when I nearly walked into one inside the new Fairmont Pacific Rim. Perhaps I shouldn’t have been so surprised, because Vancouver is full of one incredible gem after another. Still, a close encounter with a handmade Fazioli — arguably, the greatest grand piano in the world, with only 100 made every year — in this Canadian hotel lobby was quite the shocker.
And as nobody was playing her when we met, I furtively strolled over to tickle the ivories — not so much to produce music as so I could proudly say I had touched such a treasure.
Then it was off to attend class in this unforgettable waterside hotel, finished just in time for the Winter Olympics with its amazing Coal Harbour views, waterfalls, rooftop pool, outdoor fireplace, and meditation pods. My aim: to make a treasure of my own.
As an aspiring baker, I had enrolled in a private desserts class, where four hours of instruction with the Fairmont Pacific Rim’s pastry chef resulted in an impressive chocolate concoction (intermingling three kinds of chocolate) — true icing on the cake of a great afternoon.
In fact, all four afternoons I spent in Vancouver were memorably enjoyable, especially this one with a sweet slant and the chance to flaunt my new, Fairmont Pacific Rim personalized chef’s jacket once I returned home. But that would come later; for now, I was bound for an evening out.
The pickings are plenty in Vancouver, known these days as Canada’s favorite foodie destination, with Asian cuisine a specialty. In fact, many gourmands say this Pacific Rim metropolis boasts some of North America’s finest. I certainly know that my experience, at the legendary Tojo’s, was nothing short of top notch.
Choosing Tojo’s in the first place proved quite the process. Because Vancouver has more sushi restaurants per capita than Japan, I arrived armed with a list of the best thanks to an Asian-food-savvy friend back home. Among them were Miku, Toshi, and Kibune — with Tojo’s her first pick. When I ran all the names past an equally discerning friend in Vancouver, this expat local was quick to send me there directly. Decision made.
Perhaps the secret to this restaurant’s success is that raw fish combinations and preparations are all in Hidekazu Tojo’s head. Wielding the proper blade of a seasoned sushi chef, the Osaka-born Tojo came into town in 1971, trained some more, then opened his namesake eatery in 1988. From that day forward, this Canadian jewel has been dubbed the city’s best Japanese restaurant by Vancouver magazine.
Tojo’s is also cited in the book 1,000 Places to See Before You Die — an accolade so well-deserved that I happily made Tojo’s my dinner destination for my second night on the town. My selection of what to eat was left to Tojo, because I ordered the omakase, a tasting menu of all the fresh and fabulous fare the famed chef chose to conjure that evening. My favorite? His appropriately named Golden Roll, a mixture of crab, scallop, salmon, and shrimp all woven inside a crepe thin wrap.
Dinner done (and delectably digested), I returned to my hotel of choice, The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, one of four Fairmont hotels in the city. This accommodation was a natural for me, situated at the heart of the vibrant metropolis and sporting the unmistakable architecture of a 16th-century French chateau. I felt like a princess by just looking at the facade.
Perhaps the most compelling aspect for this visitor is the traveler’s theme at the hotel’s main entrance. Above the Georgia Street doors at the top of a large window is an oversized carving of the great messenger Hermes, the Greek god of travelers. Above Hermes, the traveler’s theme continues with intricate stone carvings of a ship and of a train. I was home.
This sense of comfort became more evident inside, where the Art Moderne styling suited my fancy, up to and including the nickel trim, painted elevator doors, curved doorways, and marble chip terrazzo flooring. Original geometric designs and bright colors stay true to this gracious hotel’s Deco beginnings.
Then there are the Griffins, the Fairmont Vancouver mascot. Part lion, part eagle, this mythological creature was said to hold the job of guarding treasure — which, in this case, are the hotel’s guests. Griffins are everywhere for that purpose, on the lobby carpet, in the elevators, even embroidered onto staff uniforms. I felt safe.
Next morning, refreshed, I woke up early, ready for a long day tromping around Vancouver. A good friend who lives there told me to meet her in front of the Lord Stanley statue at noon, so when I dressed to embark on a day of exploration I put on my sneakers. Even though Vancouver is a fashionable town, I wanted to be comfortable.
We started at Lord Stanley’s statue, the landmark entrance to Vancouver’s biggest patch of nature. This urban forest, named after the Governor General of Canada whose reign began in 1867, is a vast network of trails among cedar, fir, and hemlock.
Then it was on to the Seawall, a stonewall hugging Stanley Park’s shoreline, for a chance to take in an array of Vancouver landmarks, including Lion’s Gate Bridge, the Stanley Park Totem Poles, and Brockton Point and Lighthouse.
I love the Girl in a Wetsuit sculpture, depicting a life-sized woman gracefully posed on a big boulder. When the tide is high, it looks as if she is floating on top of the water. Those who spot her think she resembles the mermaid in Copenhagen’s harbor, but if you peek down at this one’s feet, you’ll see she’s wearing flippers, while on her head there’s a diving mask.
Hungry and in need of a brief rest, we grabbed a log on the beach at English Bay, part of the lively West End area, and enjoyed an impromptu snack from a friendly hot-dog vendor. Had we more time, we could have tasted nearby fare from India, Brazil, Italy, France, Mexico, Asia, and Africa. For another visit.
Our next stop, the Vancouver Aquarium, became a learning center for me as we watched and soaked up information about everything from beluga whales to sea anemones. We took the Salmon Stream Tour, and yes, in the process, we did swim upstream — only I was still wearing my sneakers.
Changing to heels, I had dinner back at my original post, the lovely Fairmont, starting with a superior martini that the in-house 900 West Lounge calls “After the Frost” — a combination splash of BC Ice Wine, shaken and poured over frozen grapes. Dinner at Griffins was divine, with a la carte favorites focused on fresh ingredients from the West Coast.
Another afternoon in Vancouver meant a refreshing 10-minute water taxi ride to Granville Island. At the famous market there, I checked out the work of local artisans. I also sampled local cheeses and literally smelled the hundreds of dozens of freshly cut flowers. It was a leisurely, lovely time away from the fray.
Back in the city proper, I made a point of making the shopping rounds on Robson Street, as well as taking in the designer stores near my hotel: Tiffany, Hermes, and Coach, among them. In the hotel, the Louis Vuitton’s flagship store showed off the latest collection, a bright bunch of luxury items I coveted.
My credit card burning (OK, I made some small purchases at Coach), I designated my last shopping stop at Holt Renfrew, this time just to see what’s in style in Vancouver. What I found beyond all the jewelry, shoes, accessories, and cosmetics was a fabulous three-story department store I would need to revisit for some serious buying. (Americans consider Holt Renfrew the Neiman Marcus of Canada.)
Shopping under my belt and beyond my budget (no regrets!), it was finally time to relax. That I did at the Fairmont Hotel’s Absolute Spa while indulging in a decadent pedicure. The surroundings for such pampering include unique chairs equipped with large, flat-screen TVs that also act as computer screens, complete with Internet access.
Strange thing was, despite my usual 24/7 addiction to the ether, I didn’t want Internet access just then. Instead, I wanted to soak up memories of my brilliant trip to Vancouver while I soaked in the warm water, my toes thanking me after so much walking.
No, I’m not complaining, just remembering. In fact, I plan to go back again next year to do another round in this wonderful Pacific Rim city — where I intend to wear out at least one pair of sneakers alone on a repeat visit to Vancouver’s incomparable Stanley Park.
Surround yourself with artists, award-winning authors, playwrights, painters, cooks — and those who yearn to be any of the above — at Art Workshop International.
Sneak out of class, and past the Hotel Giotto, for a variety of culinary experiences.
Assisi houses the magnificent Basilica of S. Francisco, with an upper tier full of Giotto’s spectacular frescoes of the life of St. Francis. The lower frescoes, by masters of the 12th and 13th centuries, are open from dawn until sunset.
Some of the finest hand-prepared vinegars and olive oils in all of Italy are found in Francisco Mollaioli’s shop, located directly across from the Hotel Giotto. Stop by and buy famous oils, as well as cherry barrel-aged balsamic vinegar, and Francisco’s grappa made from his special recipe. Even if you aren’t inclined to drop a Euro or two, do drop in to this food emporium since the only thing Francisco loves more than overseeing his product is telling all about it.
Hotel Giotto is where you’ll stay while attending the Arts Workshop International. Housed in an ancient piazza, this retreat offers a simple, basic Italian getaway. Quiet and quaint, Giotto is perfect for working on that novel, relaxing, downing grappa, or conversing over a cappuccino with new and old friends. (The bartender won’t laugh at you for ordering a cappuccino after breakfast, either!) A giant wraparound terrace beckons for drinks and outdoor dining too.
If Dad likes his vacations with a Southwestern flair, then the Inn on the Alameda will do the trick, Santa Fe-style. Relaxed and homey, the pueblo-style inn boasts complimentary breakfasts, a free wine and cheese hour, and a perfect location just steps from Canyon Road galleries. Art and shopping not Dad’s thing? This summer, the Inn is teaming up with Mellow Velo Bike Company to provide the ultimate biking getaway. The two-night cycling/sleeping package includes 24-hour bike rental with equipment, nutrition bars, water (with a custom bottle) and energy drinks, transportation to the trailhead, two 50-minute in-room massages, and a $40 gift certificate for dinner at Mucho Gusto, the lively Mexican restaurant right next door to the inn. Wondering what to order? Stuffed chicken creast in chipolte cream sauce, enchiladas Suiza, and steak fajitas are all recommended.
Overworked Dads wanting to chill out on passive adventures will love cool, calm, and collected Costa Rica. The deluxe Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica at Peninsula Papagayo offers what we call Costa Rican TV. Lay back and admire amazing marine life on the Sea Spy, a glass-bottomed water scooter for virtual scuba diving. It’s like watching a huge flat-screen in high def, with zebra-striped wahoos and spotted eagle rays swimming right up into the picture. Or how about hanging around at treetop level while soaking in an outdoor hydro spa in the middle of a rainforest? From there, Dad will spot Howler monkeys frolicking while a scarlet macaw grooms in the forefront of a blue Pacific backdrop. Chilling out continues at the Four Seasons spa where a massage therapist rolls out the knots with a contoured bamboo shoot. Afterwards, take your appetite and a five-minute shuttle to the Prieta Beach Club & Spa’s open-air Marea eatery, for local jumbo prawns sautéed in a coconut banana curry sauce. At the end of the day, if Dad still longs for continued effortless adventure, he can drive his rested self to the very lively Arenal Volcano (it erupts at least twice an hour) in the interior highlands. Lookout spots abound, but seeing red takes precedence at night, so stick around for the main attraction.
For Dads who like taking to the sea without worrying about manning their own vessel, we recommend a trip aboard the Serenity or the Symphony. Each of these highly praised Crystal Cruises’ ships offer onboard activities that go far beyond typical bridge, shuffleboard, and marathon eating contests. Consider trying paddle tennis or taking a golf lesson provided by a PGA pro. If Pop’s a runner, the Crystal ships are there for him, providing long, wide decks (on each designated area, 3.2 laps equal a mile). For the cigar and Scotch crowd, there’s the Connoisseurs’ Club, and for the computer literate who want to be even more so, there’s the high-end line’s ComputerUniversity@Sea program against a backdrop of floor-to-ceiling windows from which to watch the world go by. Our favorite shipboard activity for our learned Dads? High-level lectures from all sorts of speakers, including celebrated authors, foreign diplomats, historians, television journalists, and noted financial leaders. To be sure, for even the most know-it-all Dad, there’s always something new to learn during a Crystal Cruises’ voyage.
Home to the G8 Summit of world leaders in July 2005, the Gleneagles Hotel is no stranger to stately guests. Rest assured that Dad will be well taken care of at this luxurious, five-star resort in Scotland’s backcountry. Sure, golf is the big game here, but Gleneagles also boasts a world-class shooting school, an equestrian school, a school of falconry, and a gundog school (the first of its kind in the world). But back to golf: The resort claims three of the top Scottish Championship Golf courses, and is the chosen venue for the 40th Ryder Cup matches in 2014. Note: Is Pops up for a challenge? The famed Kings course, open since 1919, fits the bill for even the most proficient golfer. Once sporting is done for the day, Dad will surely want to hit ESPA at Gleneagles for the Golfer’s Tonic, this super spa’s choice treatment that targets swing tension held in the back and neck as well as golf-weary legs and feet. The healing begins in the feet with a soothing soak, scrub, and hot stone massage. Then is it on to the legs with a warming paraffin mask to restore energy, and, finally, the whole experience is topped off with a hot stone back massage. What more could a man ask for?
Is Dad a diver — or has he just always dreamed of being one? The newly opened Anantara Si Kao Resort and Spa on Thailand’s famed Andaman coast operates a five-star PADI dive center that’s ready and waiting to help Dad perfect his skills. Offering a full range of training programs, the center can even help a novice diver become certified right on site. Other right-there activities include windsurfing, twilight fishing, water-skiing, pick-up soccer matches, and swimming with “sea cows.” But it’s not all about the outdoors at this stunning resort. With expansive views of the ocean or the lush tropical gardens, deluxe rooms feature flat-screen TVs, DVD players, and high-speed Internet — all to quench Dad’s inevitable thirst for gadgetry at its best.
An intimate and stylish hotel in the heart of Bali, the Uma Ubud is the kind of place where Dad could easily relax and dream the day away — but it sure would be a shame if that’s all he chooses to do. Located on the fringe of Ubud, Bali’s cultural hub, this enticing retreat is the perfect base from which to explore all the rich culture and heart-pounding adventure for which Bali has always been known. The Ubud Active package allows Dad three fun and amazing ways to explore Bali’s beautiful back country. Hike the Bale Timbang Trek past local temples, villages, and misted paddy fields to Uma Ubud’s sister property, COMO Shambhala Estate. Go whitewater rafting on the Ayung River for a unique view of Bali’s vast wildlife while you catch your thrills. And, last but not least, charge down the side of volcanic Mt. Batur on a mountain bike. If that doesn’t increase your heart rate, then all we can say is pick up a mean Espresso Martini at the Uma Ubud’s mesmerizing Uma bar.
Perched in the spectacular Rocky Mountains, right next to Keystone Lake, Keystone Lodge and Spa is a year-round adventure destination. In winter, there’s world-class skiing. In summer, first-rate hiking and fishing. To make the most of the area, guests of Keystone Lodge receive complimentary Adventure Passports for free access to a plethora of outdoor activities like boating and golf clinics (in summer) and snowshoeing and sleigh rides (winter). No matter what adventures Dad chooses, he’ll bed down in luxury linens with a picturesque view of the mountain with the benefit of free wireless Internet in his room. And if Pop’s hankering for a steak, he won’t have far to go. The Bighorn Steakhouse is right on the property and serves up the finest cuts of corn-fed American beef along with wild game, fresh seafood, and other delectable specialties.
It may be part of the name, but golf isn’t the only draw to the Ritz Carlton Golf Resort in Naples, Fla. Nestled at the edge of the Everglades National Park, near the Ten Thousand Islands, Naples is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. Fishing is the main enterprise in the “mangrove jungle” of the Everglades (there are 220 species of fish living in the Florida Mangrove systems), but there’s also fantastic bird watching, kayaking, airboat tours, and manatee spotting. Back at the resort, Dad will enjoy an elegantly-appointed room complete with the finest amenities (this is a Ritz, after all) and a private balcony with panoramic views of Tiburon, the Greg Norman-designed 36-hole championship golf course. Dad more of a water-sportsman? Parasailing, snorkeling, rhino motorboats, body boards, catamarans, and skim boards are all available on the Gulf of Mexico between 10 and 4 p.m. After working up an appetite on the ocean, you’ll want to check out Lemonia, a Tuscan grill featuring daily chef specials of homemade pasta and fresh seafood and an award-winning Sunday brunch.
Is Dad a cowboy at heart? He’ll love a weekend at The Resort at Paws-Up. Situated along seven miles of the Blackfoot River (made famous by the movie A River Runs Through It), Paws-Up is steeped in history and adventure. In 1806, Captain Merriwether Lewis, of the Lewis and Clark expedition, reportedly climbed Sentinel Rock on Paws-Up property to get a view of the Marias River on his return from the Pacific Ocean. Today, Paws-Up is home to a one-of-a-kind pastoral countryside resort. Choose from sleeping in one of 28 luxury vacation homes (complete with flat-screen TVs, DVD players, and private outdoor hot tubs) or 12 spectacularly-appointed tents that feature top-notch beds outfitted in fine linens, wall art, rustic furniture, nearby private bathrooms (with running water, heated floors and organic bath products), and, yes, electricity. Daily activities might include fly-fishing, ATV tours, shooting sports, equestrian excursions, mountain biking, river adventures, lake activities, or repelling. Wildlife is abundant in the area, so, no matter what activities you choose, don’t be surprised to see a bald eagle, moose, or bear along the way. And don’t be afraid to work up an appetite. Dining at Paws-Up is an adventure in itself, with chef Wes Coffel — an avid follower of the “farm-to-table” culinary movement — whipping up gourmet delicacies with a local flair, focusing on local organic produce and Montana-raised meats like pheasant, quail, elk, bison, trout and – gulp! – rattlesnake.
Home of the 2010 Winter Olympics, Whistler is known for its winter sports, but don’t count it out as a summer destination — a great time to visit with good old Dad. This British Columbia mountain town has also gained a reputation as Canada’s premier golf location. In fact, the Fairmont Chateau Whistler was voted one of the Top Ten golf resorts in the world by the readers of Conde Nast Traveler. Legendary Robert Trent Jones Jr. designed the par 72, 18-hole course at Fairmont Chateau with Whistler’s natural beauty in mind. While playing a round, golfers change elevations by more than 400 feet, crisscrossing mountain creeks and ponds, and meandering past ancient Douglas Fir and sheer granite rock faces. Watch out for the signature eighth hole, a 212-yard par three requiring an uphill tree shot past rock outcroppings on the right and a pond on the left. And, for some “19th hole” refreshment, stop by the Mallard Lounge, a cozy local featuring live entertainment and signature cocktails with the ambiance of an English gentleman’s club. So, if Dad wants to play where the pros plays, get him the gift of Fairmont’s Golf Fore Free package. Just stay two nights at this Fairmont with the great fairway and you’ll receive one free round of golf for each person registered in the room.
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