By Paula Conway

Not many people start their winter getaway to northwestern Colorado in a botanical garden, but feeling the stress of holiday madness, I did. In my defense, this wasn’t my idea. I followed directions from my insightful Vail Valley author friend, Jodi Jill, who, when asked, advised me where to decompress.

“Head for Betty Ford’s Alpine Gardens,” she said unequivocally.

Neither the snowboarder nor skier type, yet still yearning to get up-close-and-personal with a winter wonderland after arming myself with plenty of padding, I pointed my rented Pontiac toward Ford Park.

Fluffy flakes were falling when I arrived at this at this high-altitude garden about 8,000 feet above sea level. Obviously, perennials were not in bloom, but the Rocky Mountains were in all their splendor, especially after I reached the top of Mountain Meditation Garden. There, a wall of Colorado blue spruce wore heavy snow shavings, a vista out of a picture book and just the right place for me to Zen out before nature’s most magnificent view.

Next stop: Inside, for some warmth and the chance to imbibe without having to explain my liquid intake in the middle of the day.

Forgoing the typical big Colorado brewery, I instead chose a micro version. Located about 10 miles west of Vail Village in Edward, Gore Range Brewery is a non-touristy pub with a spirited carte offering a sassy sampler selection. I liked the full-bodied Biker Stout and the suggestively named Great Sex Honey Ale — which, surprisingly, was very mild. Without a doubt, the Gore Range motto — “Microbrews, macro-fun” — is fitting.

Because I also sampled some peanut-crusted mahi-mahi at my brewery of choice, I wasn’t hungry for a big meal, so supper wasn’t anything fancy. Still, my watering hole stop did entail a new gastronomic experience: elk stew. Enjoyed at a popular local night spot called Half Moon Saloon in the West Vail Mall, this homemade concoction was hearty, if not entirely to my liking. Thankfully, I was full enough from the fish consumed earlier.

Back at my hotel room in perhaps the Vail Valley’s best digs, The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch in Beaver Creek, I opted to finalize the day on a spa note.

And what a note it was, and a sweet one, at that. My treatment of choice was the very vividly dubbed Apple Pie a la Mode, a scrub of just what the name promises, to start the exfoliation process. Also good for hydration, my masseuse’s magical mixture included cinnamon, apple extract, and a slew of natural oils. Afterwards, I felt — and smelled — delicious.

And, thanks to the invigorating dessert without calories, sleep was sound. Still, I arose early the next morning, eager to start my final day by taking part in The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch Loan-A-Lab program.

Being a bit homesick for my own pooch, a Potcake named Marley, I took the luxury hotel’s resident pup — a gentle golden Labrador retriever called Bachelor — out for a long walk around the Rocky Mountain hotel’s storied grounds. The two of us ended our winter stroll by sitting by the Ritz’s fire pit, enjoying the crisp air together and having the warmth hit my cold back. This was a very bonding time for canine and human — especially so since, good dog that he is, Bachelor sat on my frozen feet.

All too soon, it was nearly time to end my three-day Vail Valley stay. So, at the 11th hour, I finally decided to whole-heartedly give into the snow — but not before being appropriately attired.

Translation: I went shopping, finding a fabulous boutique where outerwear is chic.

Although One Track Mind in Lionshead Mall is known as a serious snowboard shop, winter clothes and accessories are what attracted my attention. Of special interest were a pair of trendy Vans boots, warmly adorned with a fluffy sheepskin-style lining (no sheep sheared for these beauties).

Then it was off into the wild blue yonder in the Colorado backcountry, cozying up to the mountainous lower levels via snowmobile. Passive exerciser a plus, the zippy machine took me over the trails and through the woods to Piney River Ranch.

Along the way, we stopped to play in what is known as Fox Farm, so named because the groomed area’s original purpose was to do away with the furry animals for their pelts. Happily, no animals are skinned there anymore, although an original early 1900s homestead cabin in still onsite, taking me back to a time when life was certainly simpler than worrying about where to find gas for my snowbound vehicle should I get lost.

The entire ride was memorable experience, one that I found both exhilarating and easy to negotiate. All that was needed was a good ending to the snow-filled afternoon, say a sit by a blazing fire with a cup of hot cider in hand. As if reading my mind, our tour guide provided the very thing following our mighty snowmobile journey that had me traverse some 30 miles of Rocky Mountain terrain.

This mindful respite invoked a nostalgic return to the prior’s night’s Ritz-Carlton apple dessert massage, a soothing pastime I never knew existed until my very first Vail Valley visit was almost over. Now, that’s what I call icing on the Rocky Mountain cake, er, I mean pie. Good, old-fashioned, American apple pie — with a new-fangled, New Age twist.

In Sonoma, California, the folks are friendly, the grapes outnumber cars, and the relaxed small-town atmosphere makes Mayberry look like a vibrant metropolis.

There is one caveat about vehicles, however: Sonoma is home to a world-class racetrack, Infineon Raceway, that occasionally hosts some of the most prestigious motor sports in America. NASCAR visits once a year, as does the Indy Racing League and its celebrity driver Danica Patrick. The loudest tourists by far are the drag racers of the National Hot Rod Association, which served as the occasion for my visit on a beautiful July weekend.

Some have called it a culture clash as loud, fast cars scorch their way down an asphalt track nestled in pastoral wine country. I, on the other hand, prefer to think of it as the best of both worlds.

Locals will tell you that, whether or not you’re a car fan, race weekends are among the best to visit Sonoma’s peaceful downtown, about eight miles north of Infineon. The reason? Radio traffic reports warn Bay Area commuters to avoid the highways surrounding the track, leaving historic Sonoma to a lucky few.

Even counting for traffic, the Saturday and Sunday at the track are half-day affairs at most. I arrive at 11 a.m. (ear plugs in tow) and stay for about five hours, keeping score of the winners and losers in my program. Walking around the trailers behind the grandstand isn’t a bad between-race diversion — drag racers are more accommodating to autograph seekers than their NASCAR and IRL counterparts.

Following an afternoon of adrenaline-fueled entertainment, it’s time for something more organic. Downtown Sonoma is far enough into the valley to be completely removed from any hustle or bustle — and noise from the track. Start at City Hall, in the center of historic Sonoma Plaza, and you’re within easy walking distance of shopping, restaurants, art galleries, and more wine tasting than your taste buds may be able to handle.

Wine tasting is by far the city’s main attraction, and navigating the variety of vino is a delicate proposition. Many tasting rooms close their doors by 5 or 6 p.m.; others are free (just look for the “free wine tasting” signs); still others require reservations.

If you’re new to the game, duck into every open door, get ready to learn about wine, and don’t be afraid to ask questions. If your palate is more refined, do some scouting at the Visitors Bureau next to City Hall, which can provide a master list of wineries and tasting rooms in the area.

Not surprisingly, the best thing about the neighborhood restaurants may be their expansive wine lists. Walk east down Napa St. to enjoy the refined California cuisine at Cafe Le Haye, where a $20 dinner entree is guaranteed to be paired with the perfect red, white, or sparkling. A great bang-for-the-buck Thai restaurant, Rin’s Thai, offers more wine and $10 dinner entrees across the street.

Just around the corner, on 1st St., I relax in the open-air lobby at the Ledson Winery and Hotel as jazz streams from its grand piano over wine from the house label. At this point in the night, the sights and sounds of cars zooming past at 300 m.p.h. is well in my rear-view mirror.

The beauty of Sonoma is that no two races, and no two sips of wine, will be exactly the same. How it managed to fit so many possibilities into such a small town is beyond me.

Until I figure out that one, I’ll keep coming back.

Sincerely,
J.P. Hoornstra

Greetings from St. Andrews, Scotland

Before I get into the thick of my trip, I need to make one thing perfectly clear: Even though I am visiting St. Andrews — the birthplace of golf — I have absolutely no intention of swinging a single club during my week in Scotland. Sacrilegious as this may seem, golf is not for me.

But, honestly, I don’t even qualify as a duffer — even though I’ve been assigned a delightful room with a bird’s-eye view of the famous links’ 17th hole (known as the Road Hole) inside the Old Course Hotel, Golf Course & Spa. So, in a way, I am in the game — and without so much as chunking even one divot out of this hallowed course.

Then, too, from my balcony, I can see the Fife coastline, the familiar background for the recognizable Swilkin Bridge, an ancient stone span traversed by every golf great I can think of, from Jack Nicklaus to Tiger Woods. As is tradition, new players snap photos of each other there, proof they have completed a round at St. Andrews.

I guess I won’t be crossing that bridge.

Instead, my focus will continue to be on the castle-like, five-star Old Course Hotel with its newly renovated accommodations. The current owners, the Wisconsin-based Kohler Company, brought their guest rooms into the 21st century with such up-to-the-minute infusions as chromatherapy tubs and handsome, one-of-a-kind, ceramic basins — all looking like they’ve leapt from the pages of Architectural Digest. The same goes for the dazzling bedrooms with red-and-white striped wallpaper, privacy curtains, and upholstered chairs. My favorite furnishings are the sleigh beds, one of which cradled me into last night’s deep sleep.

Another reason I slept so well is probably thanks to yesterday’s session at the Kohler Spa, a sanctuary of regimes I was told are based on the theory of thassalotherapy — the therapeutic benefits of water. I understood once I set eyes on the overflowing infinity bath, the open-air pole showers, and the mesmerizing RiverBath waterfall.

My treatment of choice? Why, the Highland Fling, of course. During this extensive experience, I was covered in finely ground, mint-scented coffee, and then drenched by spine-tingling Vichy showers that traversed my entire body to exfoliate and rejuvenate. I felt as good as the taste of a decaf iced latte.

I could go on forever about this place, since there’s so much to enjoy about the Old Course. The Conservatory is perfect for High Tea, heralding all kinds of brews, including chocolate. The Jigger Inn pub is another Old Course mainstay for a Scotch and some lively conversation. Open hearths sizzled yesterday while a bunch of us Americans took on a rowdy discussion with a few Scots about U.S. politics, all in good spirits (the Scotch always helps).

Even with all these delightful adventures to keep me busy, I have been fighting back the urge (or is that a sense of obligation?) to partake of St. Andrews’s sport du jour. Finally, I caved in, making an appointment with the resident PGA pro. However, this decision does require a confession. You see, rather than hitting the links, this great Scot golfer and I hit the Duke’s Course Clubhouse restaurant, where I had a terrific time learning about a fascinating game I would probably never play — all the while dining on fish and chips the scrumptious like of which I will probably never consume again.

All in all, short of meeting the Nessie, the Loch Ness Monster, I don’t think I missed a single marvelous experience in St. Andrews, the gateway to the Highlands. But who knows? That illusive creature may just turn up — and if she does, she can have my golf club.

My very best,
Jane Lasky

Often called the Chicago of Italy — to Rome’s New York — Milan is a world capital of fashion and design, and whose very name inspired the English word “millinery” for women’s hats.

BED

Delicate Balance

Combining Old World luxury with every sleek, modern convenience, the five-star Hotel Principe Di Savoia graces the Piazza della Repubblica like the grande dame of a Visconti movie set in the 1920s. Only no stuffy dowager, she: Her lobby is the sort of lively spot one might except to find AC Milan’s David Beckham checking in — or being checked out. The intricately tiled bathrooms boast oversized Acqua di Parma soaps, shampoos and lotions, while the regal bedding is so plush that you may run the risk of sleeping through your fashion show.

+39 02 62301

www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com

BLISS

Fit for a Prince

Granted, we’re biased. But stepping outside the neo-Classical Hotel Principe Di Savoia leaves us feeling like we’re abandoning Shangri-La, so any excuse to remain within its borders is welcome. Besides the Winter Garden Bar, a repeat retreat is the Club 10 Fitness & Beauty Center, atop the all-knowing hotel. Except for the complicated, hi-tech locker security device in the dressing room, this is the gym of your dreams. The pool overlooks the city, while the star-lit grotto housing the sauna and steam room is worthy of Fellini. Massages and other treatments available by appointment, as are couples’ packages.

Piazza della Repubblica

+39 02 62301

www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com

BUY THIS

Big Deals

Hard to believe, but even with the dollar in its depressed state there are still enviable bargains to be found at FoxTown Factory Stores, in Mendrisio, Switzerland, just over the border via rental car or special bus from your hotel. Among the dozens of outlets are those for Armani, Bally, Burberry, Diesel, Fendi, Ferragamo, and Valentino. Our happiest finds: at Gucci, where the classic men’s loafers in three shades of suede, $500 stateside, were $239. Ladies’ Gucci bags: $250 here, $1,200 at home. You, too, may have to be dragged away, kicking and screaming.

A. Maspoli 18

+41 0848 828 888

www.foxtown.ch

Brand Name

Being so close to Modeno, we were dispatched to Peck for balsamic vinegar, where the top-of-the-line, in-store brand sold for $80 a bottle. And what a store — a worthy rival to London’s Harrods Food Halls. The Peck name, established in 1883, also drew us to Cracco-Peck, said to the best restaurant in Milan for business lunches and dinners. No skimping, either, when it comes to desserts or the magnificent wine list.

Via Victor Hugo, off Via Orefici

+41 02876 774

www.peck.it

DISH

Label Table

Take two high-profile tastemakers, combine their names and place inside the monolithic, white stone Armani World on Via Manzoni, and you’re at Armani/Nobu. Favorite dishes among the ultra-chic clientele: black cod in miso sauce, downed with sake accented with gold leaf. Reservations necessary.

Via Pisoni 1

+41 02 6231 2645.

www.armani-viamanzoni31.it

Best Pizza Trattoria

Perhaps it’s the fresh ingredients, or the lack of preservatives, or possibly even all the walking we did to get there, but after several days of devouring various of the 86 toppings at Pizza OK, we hadn’t gained an ounce. The homespun hospitality and reasonable prices were the icing on the pie. Cash only, but worth the inconvenience.

Via Lambro 15

+41 02 2940 1272

FUN STUFF

Cover Up

It took five centuries, starting in 1386, to construct the city’s giant gothic cathedral, the Duomo, so give yourself at least an hour to explore it — or longer, if you wish to attend a service. Mark Twain wrote of its beauty: “What a wonder it is! So grand, so solemn, so vast! And yet so delicate, so airy, so graceful!” Reminder: Modest dress is the order of the day; no bare arms and shoulders, and mind the length of your skirt.

Piazza del Duomo

+39 02 8646 3456

Last-Minute Supper

Because of the enormous demand to see DaVinci’s The Last Supper, inside the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, booking tickets well in advance of your visit is mandatory — unless your hotel concierge is extremely well-connected. A call to him in advance of your trip is suggested, as is the expression, “When I arrive, I look forward to thanking you personally for your trouble.” Otherwise, there is an official Italy Tourism Web site to assist with reservations.

Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie

Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2

+ 39 02 8942 1146

www.tickitaly.com

Vocal Coach

Dating back to 1778, Teatro alla Scala — or, La Scala — begins its season Dec. 7, St. Ambrose’s Day, in honor of the patron saint of Milan. Other traditions worth heeding: All performances must end before midnight, which can prompt early curtain times for longer works. Also be warned: Once a performance has started, latecomers will not be seated. As for procuring tickets, there’s always the box office, but, as with any popular tourist site — and this one even has a strong appeal for the locals — demand is great. See advice above for the Last Supper on how your hotel concierge might be convinced to lend a hand in landing a treasured ticket to La Scala.

Via Filodrammatici 2

+39 0288 791

www.teatroallascala.org

By George

Lake Como is as scenic as it can get, and makes for a wonderful day trip from Milan. This glacial lake, one of the deepest in Europe, prompted Shelly to write in 1818: “It is long and narrow, and has the appearance of a mighty river winding among the mountains and the forests.” Little has changed since. A stroll along the shore is therapeutic, whether you’re simply gazing at the mountainside funicular railway, contemplating a ferry ride, or guessing which of the gorgeous waterside villas belongs to George Clooney. We’re still waiting for our invitation, too.

www.initaly.com/toc.htm